Vana Pinata (V11)

In terms of power endurance, this one might take the cake (for now at least). Starts of the big flake feature, and climbs straight back toward the mountains, parallel with, and in the center of, the Arch's belly. The opening moves are the hardest and can be done either with hard crimping or with a full-comitment power move that skips all of that. The holds slowly get better as the climb progresses, eventually linking you into the mid-section of Rock Bottom at the good two-handed slot. Some rest can be taken here before the final section or the problem, which is the same as that for Rock Bottom (and about V7 by itself). An extremely pumpy finish, the red-point crux are the last few moves.

FA: Matt Lutey / ★★★☆

Video

Matt's FA - Oct 2013